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Smudge Creek and Beyond in the Queen Elizabeth II Wildlands

posted Jun 5, 2013, 12:12 PM by Brad Jennings [ updated Jun 5, 2013, 12:37 PM ]

It has been a bit of an informal tradition over the last few years for my father and me to kick-start the paddling season with an exploratory trip to the Queen Elizabeth II Wildlands Provincial Park. This large, unmaintained provincial park, can be a paddlers paradise. Some of easier routes through Fishog or Devil's Lake get the majority of paddler use. However, if you're a canoeist with a good degree of trip experience seeking a little more solitude, adventure and distance, the rougher routes make for an excellent trip. The rougher routes truly live up to the wildland title bestowed upon the park. However, as far as the rougher routes go, Smudge Creek is moderate at best and I'm a little surprised it is not as well known as some of the parks other routes.

Map: http://www.explorethebackcountry.com/routelist/queenelizabethmap

For the past few years, my father and I have managed to get out in April before the foliage (and bugs!) set in. However, the 2013 paddling season would see us complete our first trip in early June and we were a little surprised with how different the landscape of the park appeared. We should not have been too surprised, as David Lee, aka the Passionate Paddler (http://www.passionatepaddler.blogspot.ca/), set off on a trip to the eastern portion of the park last summer and noted how the landscape was almost tropical in nature. By June, the park looks radically different, as lush vegetation carpets the rocky landscape in a sea of green. While the vegetation is gorgeous, it certainly ups the difficulty involved with an exploratory trip as some of the faint trails become harder to find through the vegetation.

A lush landscape and a sea of green awaits paddlers who venture into the wildlands during the summer months

We began our trip at the northernmost access point on Head Lake; a small road right-of-way with a trail leading down to the water's edge. Aided by strong tailwinds, we quickly made our way up Head Lake towards the mouth of the Head River. The river makes for an easy paddle as it slowly meanders through dense maple swamps and pine clad rocky outcrops. The swamps had a tropical feel and the area reminded us of paddling through cypress tree swamps of the Southern US. We passed by a few scenic campsites and concluded that the Head River route alone would make for an excellent novice canoe route, or a quick weekend outing.

For those continuing down the river or up Smudge Creek, two short portages (15m, 80m) bypass some rapids. Both portages are easy and clear however, watch out for the poison ivy as it grows densely in this area! Caution is advised when approaching the landing for the 80m on both sides of the rapids as the trailhead is close to moving water and can be bushy and steep. After careful scouting, we were able to run the rapids at the 80m portage, a technical class II with a few fast drops that added some brief exhilaration and adrenaline fueled fun. Running the rapids held some consequence, as my paddle split in half, ending its run of countless kilometers and trips.

The journey up Smudge Creek is a gem of a route and out of countless trips to the park, has to be one of my favorite routes to paddle. The meandering creek passes through a variety of terrain and a large portion is lined with impressive rolling rocky ridges. Birders take note; the creek is abuzz with the calls and cries of numerous species of all shapes, colour and size.

Looking upstream on Smudge Creek in the valley below

The first upstream segment of the creek passes through an alder swamp, and some technical zigzagging and pushing is required to squeeze through a few tight channels for the first 45m. Smudge Creek then opens up and the only remaining challenges include a handful of beaver dams and three short portages. The first portage is 100m in length. The landing is on the river right and one must cross an old rickety wooden bridge to portage around the small rapids. The second portage is 250m in length and features a steep landing but an easy open, ridge top trail, which descends back through a young forest to the creeks edge. The final portage is 250m in length and features an extremely steep initial ascent. This entrance is lined with poison ivy and long pants are recommended. As we completed this portage, mosquitoes, black flies and deer flies bombarded us to great extent. I suppose this is the price you pay for tripping June, but this was bug hell! Clouds of the pesky insects descended upon us as we struggled to race to the end of the trail.

Since this was an exploratory trip, we cleared, flagged and signed the portages a feat made all the more difficult by the nagging insects. I would like to believe we did a good job considering the circumstances.

The arrow points the way!

Ah, and then there was the weather. On our first day out, we were convinced that nature could not decide what to do. At the start of our journey, conditions were cloudy with sporadic light showers. The skies then opened up and the hot sun dried everything before the rains came again. This seemed to repeat in cycles every hour. Luckily, by the time we reached Smudge Lake, the sun was shining, allowing us to take refreshing swim before it clouded over again.

Our original trip plan actually had us going to Bon Lake for either the first night or both nights, but as it was getting late in the day and we could not locate a suitable landing to clear a portage, we gave up and headed to Smudge Lake. The decision to check out Smudge Lake was well worth it and we setup camp nestled among craggily red pine on a beautiful cliff. The western facing cliff allows for excellent sunset views and a good breeze to keep the insects at bay.

A perfect campsite on Smudge Lake

The following morning we woke up determined to press onward into the remote central region of the park. Making our way to Bon Lake, we rediscovered why this park is called ‘the wildlands’. A relatively easy journey up Smudge creek lulled us into a false sense of the parks true nature.

We made our way back down the creek to a landing just before a large beaver dam where we cleared and flagged a 270m portage towards a small, unnamed pond. The portage generally follows open ridges and is fairly straightforward to the experienced tripper. The small pond contains numerous heron rookeries, so we paddled silently towards the outlet where the next portage awaited.

Smudge Lake in the sun

In preparing for the trip, I had analyzed several highly detailed sets of satellite imagery to get an idea of where the ideal portage route towards Bon Lake may be. I ran into some confusion in the area around the small, unnamed pond. One series of images showed a lake existed just downstream of the unnamed pond and would make for an easy 500m paddle towards the ATV trail that would take us to Bon Lake. However, another image set showed a small creek and beaver meadow in place of the lake. The problem was both sets of images were not dated, so I had no idea as to which one represented the current landscape. I had spoken with long-time park paddler Jeff McColl (See his Trip Report). Jeff was sure the lake still contained water and I inclined to agree. However, as we descended the ridge from the small, unnamed pond portage, we were disheartened at what we saw. A marshy beaver meadow and a small stream had replaced the lake!! After mulling over the notion of the extended portage, we decided we would give it a go and portage along the old lake-bed before veering north towards the ATV trail that would take us towards Bon Lake. The old lake-bed made for easy portaging, as it was flat and generally dry. However, when we reached the beaver dam at the end of the lake, an 80m bushwhack through forest and up a ridge proved slightly more complicated. The ATV trail is a can’t miss path and following it west will take you to the shores of Bon Lake. We didn't bother clearing or flagging any of the trail and suggest that only experienced trippers seeking a little more solitude found deeper in the park attempt this route. That being said, the bushwhacking portion is short and straight forward, just be sure to bring a map and GPS or compass.

There once was a lake here, wildlands indeed...

Bon Lake is a long and narrow body of water created by the damming of Gold Creek. There are a few hunt camps on or near the lake, but given its size it is one of the more remote bodies of water in the park. Numerous bays and channels allow for some exploring in peace and solitude. The wind can funnel down the lake and we were met with strong headwinds as we attempted to locate a suitable campsite. As the evening progressed the winds grew stronger and the temperature steadily dropped. The temperature plummeted from a balmy +25 to a frigid +2C overnight. Subsequently the paddle out felt more like November and less like June! However, by the time we completed the lengthy portage out of Bon, the sun came out and the temperature reached pleasant levels.

We are still canoeing in June right?

The warm weather was a welcome, especially considering what transpired next. As we attempted to cross the large beaver dam just south of the 270m portage from the small, unnamed pond, we pulled off a clumsy and foolish maneuver, and before we knew it the canoe was half in the creek! As we descended the beaver dam we foolishly decided to remain in the boat and force our way down only to have the bow wedged on a rock causing the boat to partially flip and take on a good amount of water. The whole experience happened in what seemed like slow motion leaving us standing in the water in great shock. The partial dunking was my first capsizing of a canoe, a fairly impressive feat considering how many years and countless thousands of kilometers I've put behind me on trips. I feel I must have jinxed myself with my last blog posting....

The beaver dam...

The reminder of the trip thankfully continued without further dunking incidence. The final push towards the access point on Head Lake proved fairly difficult due to strong headwinds. It should be noted that strong winds are a common occurrence on the large lake so plan accordingly.

With its varied scenery, remote campsites, and straightforward portages the Smudge Creek route established itself as one of my favorite routes within the park. With the route now cleared signed and flagged, it makes for an excellent tripping getaway!

Paddling the scenic Head River

So what's the next route in the park to explore? I've set my sights on the Cranberry river towards Rainy Lake. Check back soon! There's more exploration within the wildlands to come!

Please feel free to leave a comment

Backcountry Blunders

posted May 27, 2013, 1:16 PM by Brad Jennings

I can safely say I have not experienced many blunders on a backcountry trip! At least I think I can? Just what is a blunder anyways; a goofy mistake, stumble or a carelessness inducing hilarity? Okay, well maybe my paddling companions and I have experienced a few….

There was the time my father attempted to put out a campfire with the clear fluid contained in a plastic water bottle we found lying around our campsite. That clear fluid turned out to be lighter fluid and not the good old fire quenching H2O. The resulting fireball nearly scorched the leafy canopy above us and it was nothing short of miraculous that we emerged with hair and eyebrows intact.

Pro Tip: Lighter fluid WILL NOT put out fires!

Once, just before a weekend fishing trip to McCrae Lake, my buddy decided he’d get a haircut. Well it was more than just a haircut; he ended up shaving his head! Not used to how his newly acquired baldness would manage the solar rays, he spent countless hours fishing the open waters of the lake without a hat or sunscreen. Additionally, it was cloudy, so little concern was given for those pesky UV rays. The fishing was great, but he ended the trip feeling sick, with chills, nausea and a bright red burn on his head. Ouch! I have not seen him with a shaved head since (Sorry Mike!).

It's +30C, I'm no doctor but I think he has the chills

Ah, then there was the time I was off for a quick thanksgiving paddle. While fishing the tranquil waters of the Old Ausable River Channel, I was startled by my phone going off in my pocket, alerting me that I had incoming messages. Normally I pack such devices away as emergency contact measures on the off chance I have a signal. However, as this was a day trip, the thought to pack my phone away in a waterproof case escaped me. As I started to pull it out of my pocket, it vibrated once more. In a quick second, it slipped from my hand and sunk to the weedy abyss below. I guess I will never know what that message was….

The Old Ausable River Channel is apparently my personal secretary. Warning: The calls may not go through

Oh, there was a Temagami tale too. I can recall a very rugged portage containing a lovely bog midway through. Upon traversing the spongy peat mat, I took one doomed step and sank up to my knee causing my weight to shift and the canoe to come crashing down and flip over. The canoe pack I was carrying became stuck under the yoke and since I was strapped to the pack, I somehow managed to flip upside-down with the pack and canoe. I was now strapped to a pack that was stuck to the boat, and contorted in an awkward upside-down position. At least in the tumble my leg was free from the mucky grasp of the bog! Oh, but my boot was somewhere buried in the muck. I think the squirrels were laughing at me.

Pro Tip: As an effective portage technique, your feet go on the ground, not the in air.

Hmm then there was that time I lost my bike keys.... I’ll stop while I’m ahead….
If you spend enough time tripping, some odd, funny or just downright dumb things are bound to happen. You might as well have a good laugh about it after!

Please feel free to leave a comment

Queen Elizabeth II Wildlands Expedition

posted Oct 19, 2012, 11:43 AM by Brad Jennings [ updated Feb 4, 2013, 12:30 AM by ExploreThe Backcountry ]

Ah the Queen Elizabeth II Wildlands, these days it seems everyone is interested in finding out a little more information on my new favorite area for exploratory canoe trips. The most popular routes in the park include short trips to Fishog, Sheldon or Crooked Lakes but I prefer to venture further into the 'Wildlands' and witness the true rugged beauty the park has to offer.

Queen Elizabeth II Wildlands Provincial Park

After accomplishing a handful of trips following the rough paths of others (See The 2011 Trip) I was determined to paddle deeper into the park and set my sights on a potential new route through to Scrabble and Clear Lakes. I had spent a few weeks back last fall pouring over the sat photos to determine the best way into the region and opted on a way in via Fishog Lake and Digby Creek. You can follow along with the trip report on the map I've made up from information I've collected on several trips to the park now.

Map
http://www.explorethebackcountry.com/routelist/queenelizabethmap

Day 1

We departed from the Head Lake Access Point on a brisk April day around noon and made it to the far side of Fishog within the hour. The first plan was to locate a supposed snowmobile trail that was located nearest the far northeastern bay. After an hour of bushwhacking and scanning the map we gave up the search and paddled down the small creek. To reach the first lake on the route leading to Redboat Lake, we first flagged and cleared an easy 90m portage to the right of a large white pine. We then paddled around the lake and searched for the best way to the small stream to the north. No good looking options and the best way out was over a steep ridge. Think 45 degree angle climb, great view, killer for your quads (according to my father). It's the type of start to a portage that makes you wonder why you go on these types of getaways. In all honesty this seemed like out best bet as it was somewhat of a cleared animal path making it a good place to start. However, besides the initial ascent, it really is an easy portage and follows a barren ridge top that involved minimal clearing. We erected some stone cairns then flagged and signed it. Overall it's an easy 290m portage if you overlook the horrid first 60m. This led us to a small lake like stream.

Lake Like Stream

After all this portage scouting, and subsequent clearing/flagging it was getting late. A quick 40m portage around a beaver dam and land bridge on an ATV trail brought us into a small lake where we would stay the night. I could see this lake getting a bit swampy in the summer as you can see the aquatic plant life just rising below the surface. Beaver activity on the lake was quite extensive and I counted about 4, so extra time was spent treating the water.

Day 2

Temperatures dipped to -5C during the night, and after being serenaded by wolves, we awoke to a frosty, misty morning.

Misty, Frosty Morning

The next portage to clear was directly across the lake, so we loaded up the canoe, only to step out moments later and clear an easy 70m portage over a ridge. This was followed by a bit of marshy creek paddling until we reached a beaver dam that was so high it required the use of a small 5m portage. The portage also marked the first sign of human activity we've seen along the route in the form of an old pair of pruner clippers sitting in the water. Maybe someone from Redboat wanted to clear some routes into adjacent lakes?

Signing the Portage

We continued on through a small lake, pine clad lake and cleared an easy 90m portage around some rapids into Redboat lake. Covered in pines and rocky outcrops, Redboat proved to be very scenic and looks like a great spot for some bass action when the season opens. After a quick lunch break at the Stanton Airways cabin dock, we headed down the shoreline to scout out a potential portage into Digby Creek. We proceeded to clear an easy 75m trail that yet again, has a steep ascent over a knoll, though this one was a straight forward up-and-over a grassy, less quad killing ridge. This portage is just to the left of the lonely, large white pine. Alternatively you could take an ATV trail to the south but it's A: steep, B: muddy, C: has a bad put in at a bridge and D: you then have to get over numerous lift-overs on the creek. The 75m portage avoids all this.

Overlooking the Redboat-Digby Creek Portage

Digby creek was quite navigable much to my relief, just numerous beaver dams and logjams to lift-over, but forward progress is pretty swift. Just have a keen eye and find the best channel. Most logs are simply floating and can be moved with a good poke from a paddle.

Paddling Digby Creek

We checked out cranberry lake but the portage around the rapids seemed to steep and tricky to clear or bushwhack this late in the day. It would be easy to get into Cranberry and it looked quite scenic from our ridge top vantage point. I'll leave that for someone else to explore and fill me in.

The last portage of the day was an easy 55m into Scrabble that we cleared beside the rapids. In low water you may have to walk over the ridge top by the old boat to reach the portage. This portage required a good clearing and man was I happy I had my machete with a saw-blade on the reverse. Lots of dead fall and scrub here, but now it's an easy to follow flagged path! After arriving at Scrabble Lake, we made our way to a beautiful rocky peninsula and set up camp.

Scrabble Lake

Day 3

The next day we explored the Eastern reaches of Scrabble, finding a few more campsites in the process... and where they all originated from. An ATV trail leading to a cache of over 25 boats greeted us in the far Eastern bay. After exploring the trail for a bit we worked our way back down Scrabble to find a way into Clear Lake.

My initial idea was to locate a portage the ministry said existed, but sadly it didn't appear to. The alternative plan was to head out the way we came in and establish a portage from Digby Creek. But I saw a small stream on the sat images and wondered if it would be passable. Well long story short, it is, but only to those hardy types....

Don't Attempt This Route Into Clear Lake Unless You're The Hardy Type

I scouted the route on the ridge and it looked like it could be done, but after slogging and lining through the small creek for over an hour before finally reaching Clear Lake (still dry somehow but with a boat full of alder branches) we decided that only the crazy should try this for some fun.

At least Clear lake is very scenic, and In my mind, worth the slogging. The sites on this lake are very underused, most look like they haven't been touched in years, but some had some interesting user created features. Historical (60s-70s era) garbage (cans, bottles etc) on a small island were really the only sign of people. Also checked out the 240m portage into Little Couburn Lake. Easy to follow on an ATV trail and the lake is very scenic/secluded.

Clear Lake

Day 4

We left Clear Lake behind and cleared a 295m portage back into Digby creek. Water levels may shorten this. We then proceeded to paddle back to Fishog, making quick progress now that we didn't need to scout or clear overland routes. We could have easily made it back to the access point, but we felt another night spent in the park was in order and we quickly drifted off to sleep after a hearty pasta dinner.

Day 5

On the final day of our trip we headed back to Head Lake, only to encounter gale force winds that whipped up midway through our crossing. After a harrowing crossing that saw us narrowly avoid a few boat capsizing rouge waves, we scrambled ashore just as the wind picked up and delivered 100km+ gusts. Safe and sound on the shore we reflected on just how successful a trip it had been. As the area is my favorite for exploratory canoe trips, the plans are already in place for a return in the spring of 2013. This time, an expedition to a chain of lakes to the west of Crooked...

Rapids on the Head River

And be sure to check out our Youtube video of the trip!

Cycle-Backpacking: A Solo Adventure to Wolf Island

posted Jul 9, 2012, 8:52 PM by Brad Jennings [ updated Oct 20, 2012, 9:58 AM by ExploreThe Backcountry ]

It's hard to believe that after 21 years of adventure, this would be my first solo overnight trip. I had always believed that it would be a canoe trip, after all, my preferred and most experienced method of backcountry travel is by canoe. Yet when a free weekend appeared on my calendar that unfortunately didn't include access to a vehicle, or others with time off who did, I scrambled to think of an alternative to still ensure a backcountry getaway. After a few seconds of thinking I realized I had a vehicle capable of traveling 30-35km/h with a loaded backpacking pack. My bike.

$DCIM\100GOPRO$

And what a vehicle!

In the past I had always toyed with the idea of using my bike to gain access to a backcountry destination but the opportunity never materialized. This weekend seemed perfect and so I started pouring over the topos and Google Earth before I settled on Wolf Island Provincial Park. A tiny 222ha natural environment class park, straddling the southern edge of the Canadian shield in the heart of the Kawartha's. Bordered by Buckhorn Lake and the Trent Severn Waterway, this was not a wilderness destination, but it was close enough to make for an enjoyable weekend backcountry escape.

Friday after work I headed off on my 35km ride under blue skies and a sweltering July heat wave with the humidex creeping towards 40C. The heat was taking its toll on me and I made the decision to stop in Lakefield to refill on some much needed water and top up my tires with some air. It was here that I decided to prolong my ride by taking country roads but avoid an 8km stretch of highway 28, which was full of cars all heading up to enjoy a weekend in cottage country. This proved to be a great decision as the 1km stretch of highway 28 I had to ride was choke full of crazy cottage traffic. After some more country traveling, I had arrived at my chosen spot to leave the bike and set out on foot. I stashed the bike a few meters back in the woods and locked it to a small cedar. From here I followed dirt roads and small trails to a series of dams that separated Buckhorn and Lovesick Lakes. An easy crossing over the dams brought me to a utility line which I followed to the "boat access only" Lovesick Lock where I received a few raised eyebrows from the Parks Canada staff on duty. After crossing the locks and two more dams I had arrived on Wolf Island!

Lovesick Lock on the Trent-Severn Waterway

The trail I had been following quickly disappeared into the bush and I resorted to bushwhacking and route finding via my topo maps and GPS. Unfortunately this proved to be a slow grind as I found myself skirting numerous wetlands and beaver ponds without finding a suitable place to camp. By now the combination of sun, heat and the weight of my pack were wearing me down, I had finished the last of my water and there was no fresh source to purify nearby. I was in desperate need of a good swim and refill of water to cool me down. After another half hour of slogging I arrived at a campsite I had marked on my map (Sourced from Kevin Callans book: A Paddler's Guide To Weekend Wilderness Adventures in Southern Ontario). Relived that I had found a spot, I wasted no time in trying too cool off, but was extremely disappointed with the massive weedbed just meters away from my site. I simply flopped into the non-weedy area and floated in a foot of water until I gained some relief from the stifling heat. As it was getting late I quickly grilled up a steak and prepared some roasted garlic mashed potatoes just as the sunlight began to fade.

$DCIM\100GOPRO$

Yep, the trails just don't exist out here, bushwhacking is more anyways! Right?

I've heard stories of how your first night on a solo trip can be unnerving, even to veteran trippers. There's just something different about only having a thin tent wall between you and the night critters with no human backup. Too exhausted to worry about such night critters, I slowly drifted off to sleep with a warm summer breeze gently flowing through the open mesh of the tent.

Enjoying the fire as twilight set in

Later In the night I was awoken to the sounds of a raccoon snuffling around just outside my tent. I had strung my pack in the tree before retiring to the tent, but I wondered what tasty aromas it still gave off. As I was backpacking, I didn't have the air tight food barrel to keep food extra secure like on a canoe trip. In a half awaken slumber I mumbled many incoherent grumbles until I found my vocal cords and finally scared off the striped devil. I fell back into a deep sleep, no doubt dreaming about cashing off raccoons, until I felt a tiny droplet of water hit me straight in the face. It was as if someone had turned on a switch, before I even realized what I was doing, I was outside, fly in hand and scrambling to cover the exposed tent mesh. I somehow succeeded in a blistering few seconds and dashed back into the tent before the impeding deluge could soak me to the bone. Only it didn't come, a few droplets later and the familiar pitter-patter of rain on the fly ceased. Peeved that I had only woken up to provide a quick midnight snack to hordes of hungry mosquitoes, I rolled over and decided just to forget about it.

Fly off is a much better way to enjoy the stars and a warm summers night breeze, unless of course it rains!

It turns out setting up the fly proved useful after all, as storms rolled in a few hours later and kept me inside the tent to just before noon. I figured this was a good time to catch up on some much needed sleep and didn't feel like subjecting myself to the rain for a cup of camping coffee and toast. When the skies finally parted I fixed up a quick lunch and began to tear down camp in hopes of finding a better site for swimming as the storms did nothing to break the intense July heat.

As I started repacking my bag for the days hike, I noticed I couldn't find my bike lock keys. So I began to search, and search, and search some more. A half hour later and I still could not locate those keys. These keys were essentially my car keys, without them I was sure I couldn't get back. Now, picture yourself, in the woods with no keys to unlock your vehicle upon your return. What would you do? Certainly not panic as this succeeds in solving nothing. Thankfully I was in the Kawartha's, prime cottage country with ample cell coverage. I quickly dialled some relatives who only lived 30 minutes away, explained my situation and tasked them with finding a device to break through my lock. We agreed upon a time to meet the next day and I could continue to enjoy my trip without having to worry about a ride out.

The rest of the day unfolded perfectly. I found a gorgeous spot on a point with deep water for swimming and a flat tent spot under towering pines and stately oak trees. I even had excellent luck at fishing from the shore and as a result dinner consisted of Sunfish Pad Thai. In my opinion sunfish, bluegill and pumpkinseed are some of the most tasty fish you can catch, just be sure to keep the larger fish or you will have more bones than meat to contend with.

A stringer of sunfish for my Pad Thai

The following day I packed up and headed out. I stopped at the Lovesick Lock to fill up my water bottles with some cold some tap water and ate lunch as boats passed in and out of the locks. I returned to my bike and awaited my relatives who brought a pair of wire cutters which quickly did the trick. Two snips and a few seconds later my ride was free! Disaster averted! I saddled up and headed back home, enjoying the country air and changing scenery as I reflected upon a highly successful first solo trip. I now plan to store my lock keys in someplace of great importance like my map bag or inside my wallet and have a backup stored in another location... just in case my next cycle-backpacking trip takes me further afield, which it undoubtedly will.

Scenic view from a perfect campsite on Wolf Island Provincial Park

And be sure to check out my Youtube video of the trip!

Please feel free to leave a comment

Memorable Portaging

posted Jun 25, 2012, 8:31 PM by Brad Jennings [ updated Oct 20, 2012, 10:00 AM by ExploreThe Backcountry ]

Ah portaging, an integral part of many canoe trips, and to quote Bill Mason:
"Anyone who says they like portaging is either a liar or crazy."
Over the years I've encountered many portages ranging from the benign 20m to the more sinister 5km+ slogs. From the hard work of maintaining old, forgotten trails and blazing new ones, to getting downright lost on vast ATV and logging road networks, there have certainly been many portages that for various reasons will forever been ingrained in my mind. Experienced canoeists will tell you it's not just the distance but a combination of terrain, weather and usage that makes a given portage one to stand out in your memory.

The infamous sign that warns of impeding muscle usage

I often make double carries on all portages, essentially tripling the distance traveled and time spent. This is mostly due in part to the addition of camera equipment and subsequent cases. The 'tripling system' is our usual norm and for most portages does not result in any additional frustration, that is unless you come across one of those 'memorable' portages where you find yourself cursing with every step forward you take.

One of my most memorable portage experiences occurred back in 2007 on an extensive trip through the northern reaches of Killarney Provincial Park. At first, the 200m portage from Bear to Goose Lake seemed like a straight forward short trek along a well utilized trail, until we reached the shores of Goose Lake. I believe the old, grainy picture of my father captured on a primitive Argus digital camera says it all; "what shore?"

The 'shore' of Goose Lake

Goose Lake ceased to exist as a lake and was instead replaced by a large muddy waste made impassable by canoe. The culprit of the Goose Lake transformation? Crafty beavers. Yes, these fuzzy little engineers had crafted an impressive dam blocking the outflow from Rocky Lake. With no in-flowing water, Goose 'Lake' subsequently dried up. As the route through Goose Lake was necessary to reach our booked site on Fish Lake, we were faced with only one option: portage. One would think that portaging on dry lake bed would be an easy task due to the flat open terrain, but they would be sorely mistaken. The only portion of Goose 'Lake' that was portage friendly was a thin strip of shoreline that was riddled with ankle snapping loose stone and boot sucking mud. To make matters worse, temperatures in the upper 30's turned the inside of the canoe into a large oven, determined to dry out the soul of even the hardiest. Over a kilometer later we had reached the eastern terminus of Goose 'Lake', caked in excessive amounts of mud and sweat. It was here that our maps indicated a small navigable stream, with an optional 700m portage for extreme low water conditions. However, no water in Goose 'Lake' meant no water in its outflowing creek, but before we could tackle the additional 700m we met up with a group who looked quite relived to have completed the 700m portage they described as wet, marshy and overgrown. My father casually mentioned that they best prepare for more slogging and pointed to the 'Lake' behind. Their joy at completing the 700m was expectantly short lived. We suggested they portage around the lake shore like we had. We wished them a good trip and continued down the trail with our packs.

The muddy wasteland of Goose 'Lake'

All the portaging in intense heat soon resulted in empty water bottles and talk soon shifted towards looking forward to a refreshing swim and a chance to fill up our water bottles when we concluded the portage. Much to our dismay, North Howry Creek was a muddy, leech infested stream where we had a better chance at contracting Giardia than enjoying a refreshing swim. Upon our return to retrieve our canoe and remaining equipment we found one of the members of the other group waist deep in the mud just 100m offshore. The other members of the group explained that he had attempted to navigate the small amount of remaining water on the 'Lake' and quickly got stuck with no way back. This is where we parted ways again and rushed to complete the final 700m leg of the overgrown portage, accumulating many cuts from the raspberry and blackberry brambles that impeded our passage. At the conclusion of the portage we raced across Round Otter Lake, and were faced with a quick portage that ended in a stagnant pool before finally reaching Fish Lake and a well deserved swim!

And for that, the Goose Lake portage has forever been one of my most memorable portaging experiences.

Well played beavers, well played.

Even the simpler portages can make great memories, but that's another story!

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